Take off for a city break in Tirana
There are so many different kinds of travel, and that's what makes it so incredible. Organized travel, group travel, solo travel, off-the-beaten-track travel, all-inclusive vacations, staycation, city break, in short, the options are numerous and the list non-exhaustive.
Depending on what we want to do, what's available and what our budget allows, we can tailor our trip in different ways, whether in France or abroad.
City breaks have been extremely popular for many years now. It refers to escapades in urban areas that allow you to get away from it all for a weekend or longer. Low-cost flights have made a major contribution to this trend, enabling you to travel abroad for as little as €50 return. In fact, don't you think it's crazy that going abroad can sometimes cost less than flying from Toulouse to Paris? Anyway! That's another subject...
Today, telecommuting is more and more widespread, and there's also talk of the 4-day week. All these changes are leading to new trends, and travel has become completely democratized, especially for the new generations who are keen on it. There are many well-known destinations, including Paris, Madrid, London, Lisbon, Rome... But today I'm taking you on a city break to Tirana.
Flights from France to Tirana are very recent. As far as I know, in recent years, flights were operated only from Paris. Nowadays, you can fly to the Albanian capital from Marseille, Nice, Lyon and Paris (of course). For cross-border commuters, there are also flights from Geneva, Charleroi and Karlsruhe. For those interested, there are also numerous flights from Italian cities such as Bergamo, Turin and Milan…
Now let's get to the heart of the matter: why choose Tirana for your next city break?
First of all, it's important to note that Tirana is a remarkable city thanks to the diversity of its aspects, and believe me, you'll be thrilled. To be perfectly honest, at first, I don't know why I thought I'd be faced with a grey city, a bit like the USSR (stereotypes die hard), and that I wouldn't dwell on it.
In the end, Tirana turns out to be an extremely lively city. Colors, music, bars on every corner, terraces, green spaces, events... It's hard to believe that just over 30 years ago, there was violent repression.
I like to use the city's main square, Skenderbeg Square, as an example of Tirana's identity. You arrive on a vast marble slab, where you can see a number of very different monuments.
Firstly, the National Museum and its famous mosaic, a symbol of the communist heritage. It represents the Albanian people on the road to independence.
Next, you'll see the Palace of Culture (okay, I'll grant you, it's right up there with the Soviet architecture of the 60s, but it had to be). Today, it houses the city's opera house, the national library, a bookshop (where you'll find Ismaïl Kadaré's books in French) and... cafés! Oui encore et toujours.
Next is the Etem Bey mosque. Built in 1789 and a symbol of Ottoman heritage, it stands out from the others not only for its small size, but above all for its interior and exterior frescoes. You'll find nature-related representations such as trees, bridges and waterfalls, which are quite unusual in Islamic art.
Next to the mosque stands the statue of the national hero Skanderbeg, a symbol of strength and patriotism. It was unveiled in 1968 to mark the 500th anniversary of his death. It shows him on horseback, tall and robust, his posture symbolizing his role as a leader, determined to liberate Albania.
Lastly, a landscaped green space lies just behind, symbolizing a city that aims to be green and pleasant for its citizens. The city hosts a number of events throughout the year, such as street food week in May.
Finally, you'll see (sadly) a lot of high-rise construction. They've all sprung up in less than 5 years and are a blot on the landscape. The local authorities give the go-ahead to anyone and everyone, and don't respect the urban plan. Moneyval has expressed its concern about this permissiveness. In 2020, the National Theatre, one of the city's historic monuments, was razed to the ground, despite numerous public protests against the decision.
As you can see, this central square contains a lot of information that can give you a first impression of Tirana's identity. It is a popular gathering place for locals and tourists alike.
For city breakers with an appetite for history, Tirana is the place for you. To mention just a few of the places that retrace Albania's (sad) history over several decades, I invite you to visit Bunk'art 1 and 2, as well as the House of Leaves (dedicated to the history of surveillance and the secret police during the Communist period).
Bunk'art is in my top 3 of all the museums I've visited. It's located in an underground bunker built during the Communist era (immersion guaranteed). It traces Albania's history from the Second World War to the end of the communist dictatorship in 1991. While Bunk'art 2 focuses on history after the end of the dictatorship.
A much lesser-known museum than the others mentioned above is the Muzeu i Gruas - “gruas” means “woman” in Albanian. This museum is dedicated to the history and role of women throughout history, their role in society and their influence in certain fields. It also looks back at the positive effect of the communist regime on the emancipation of women in a society governed by patriarchy.
For a slightly lighter atmosphere, stroll through the Pazari i Ri market area, one of my favorite places (my friends know my ultimate passion for markets). It was renovated in 2016 and features colorful facades, bars (always) and a glass hall. In my opinion, the best time to visit is in the morning, after you've done your shopping and enjoyed a coffee or qoftes (99% chance you'll smell it nearby).
If you feel that Tirana is moving too fast, you should know that the city is full of resources (I told you that at the end of the article, your choice will be made). There's a large park where you'll discover, among other things... a huge lake! You can stroll along a landscaped esplanade, ride your bike, eat an ice cream or just sit at a bar (yes, even here!) and enjoy a café frappé (am I the only one who lives for cafés frappés?).
For those who love panoramic views, I invite you to discover Dajti Mountain. It's easy to get to thanks to its cable car. You can visit Bunk'art 1, take a hike or simply stroll along for a breath of fresh air while admiring the view from 1,600 meters above sea level.
If you're a market enthusiast like me and have the time to spare, don't hesitate to visit the Don Bosko district. I lived there for a few months, and what a pleasure it was to buy my fruit, vegetables and flowers every day. You'll find big stalls lining the road, but also small producers without a stall - they have a seal to allow them to sit down and maybe a crate or two to put their wares in. Granted, it's rootsier than the Pazari i Ri, but that's Albania too.
Now, let's talk about the city's festive side by mentioning the Blloku district. To give you an idea of the identity and state of mind of the Albanians, this district was totally off-limits during the dictatorship, and for good reason: the dictator Enver Hoxha lived there. Today, it's hard to believe that Albanians are living life at 100 km/h here. You'll find as many bars as nightclubs. This is the city's chic district, where the gilded youth meet.
Fun fact: there's a bell in this neighborhood, but not just any bell. It's the Peace Bell. Inaugurated in 1999, it was cast from the metal of cartridges collected by children at the end of the war. Can you find it?
